Pepper spray is one of the most effective and easiest to conceal self defense products in the market today. With crime rates increasing each day, this personal protection spray will definitely help you in deterring any attacker.
Pepper spray contains oleoresin capsicum, a byproduct of cayenne pepper, one of the hottest peppers in the world. When sprayed, it works to temporarily incapacitate an attacker through a painful and burning sensation in the facial region especially in the eyes and more often than not causes momentary blindness. However, it will not inflict permanent damage on your attacker.
When using this self defense spray, you need to understand its concept and how it is used properly. Carrying a pepper spray (or any other self defense device for that matter) without knowing how to use it is just like carrying nothing at all. Your ignorance will certainly put you in graver danger. It is vital that you learn the correct way of using pepper spray if you want to be able to successfully and efficiently protect yourself.
However, accidents do happen when we less expect them. Learning how to deal with unintentional contact with the pepper spray is just as important as knowing how to use it. If you sprayed yourself by mistake, here is what you should do:
· First things first. Don’t panic. Go outside so you can breathe fresh air. The spray works to cause difficulty in breathing so you need to get some fresh air to breathe easily.
· Take off clothing contaminated with the spray. The technique is to get rid of the stuff which was sprayed on by the pepper spray since its tendency is to seep through clothing. Remember that the spray is oil-based so don’t counteract it with another oil-based product such as lotions and creams.
· Do not rub or scratch your skin. This will only worsen the situation by smearing the spray all over your face causing you extreme burning sensations. Avoid scratching it if you don’t want the pepper to seep through your pores and under your skin.
· Wash the affected exposed area with mild detergent and water to help neutralize the effects. You can also use milk, baking soda and honey to eliminate the stinging sensation on your fingers and facial region. Applying baby shampoo sometimes works too.
The effects of pepper usually lasts for about 45 minutes so you need to get yourself distracted within the time frame to reduce the harsh effects of the spray. By using the above-mentioned antidotes, you can effectively lessen the period of discomfort the spray caused you. Remember that you will not be permanently damaged in any way so don’t be extremely alarmed.
Knowing the right way of using the self defense spray will not only effectively shield you from an attacker but will also protect you from your ignorance. Accidentally spraying yourself when attacked is something that you should undeniably avoid at all cost. Though most sprays come with safety caps, other factors such as panic and fear will certainly affect your concentration and agility. Most attackers will use the element of surprise so the best that you can do now is prevention and constant practice.
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Source by Annabelle Lehoux
Electrical burns are one of the most serious injuries sustained following electrocution. Burns may initially appear to be minor, and the real damage to the tissues under the skin may not be readily evident. Deep tissue damage can be extensive, sometimes requiring amputation of a limb or a portion of a limb. Electrical burns are usually most severe at the contact point (source and ground). The source is often the head or hands, and the ground is often the feet. The length and duration of contact with the electrical source generally determines the extent of injury.
• High-voltage electrical burns- typically exhibit a contact burn where the electrical source was touched, as well as a burn where the person was grounded. Tissues along the pathway of the current can also be damaged, and the extent of burn on the outside is often not a good indication of the damage under the skin surface.
• Arc burns- do not occur at low voltage. These injuries occur when electrical energy passes from an area of high resistance to one of low resistance. There will be burn wounds at the site of contact and at the ground contact point. There may be flash and flame burns, so burns of varying severity may be observed.
• Flash burns- caused by a nearby electrical arc that passes over the surface of the body. Internal tissues are not affected. Burns may be large but are generally superficial.
• Flame burns- these electrical burns are the direct result of clothing catching on fire, causing thermal burns.
• Low-voltage burns- these generally require several seconds of contact with the source. These burns may range from superficial to severe, depending upon the length of contact.
• Oral burns- these occur in the pediatric age group, when children bite or suck on an electrical cord. Current crosses from one side of the mouth to the other. Damage may be severe, and deformity may occur. These electrical burns may appear less serious than they really are initially and may compromise the airway.
Victims who sustain electrical burns generally require admission to hospital, and should be referred to a trauma center or burn center if their injuries are severe. Although survival rates from severe burns have improved, there are still very high rates of significant morbidity and amputation following severe electrical burns. Treatment must be aggressive and sustained and the victim may require extensive rehabilitation to regain function.
Because electrical burns can be serious and require lengthy hospitalization and rehabilitation, the victim may find him/herself burdened with substantial costs associated with treatment and recovery. They may be unable to work for weeks to months and some may be unable to work in their chosen profession again. The physical, emotional and financial cost of electrical burns can be high; for this reason, victims of such injuries may require legal assistance to determine their rights following the injury, particularly if the injury occurred while working.
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Source by Shane A Lee
Reloading or Building Your Own Ammunition
This is not as crazy as it sounds. Reloading ammunition is something that has been safely done by individuals for decades. Almost any caliber cartridge can be safely reloaded at home. All it takes is the right equipment, the right supplies and a set of detailed instructions. After that all it takes is time. That is what we are going to look at now.
Steps Of Reloading or Building Ammunition
Let’s take a detailed look at how long it takes to reload or build ammunition. First, let’s look at the steps of the reloading process.
There are several different types and manufacturers of reloading equipment. Some of these combine some of the steps listed above and shorten the process. In order to answer the question about how long it takes to reload or build ammunition we set up an experiment and reloaded 20 cases of once fired military brass. Here are the results.
Timed Steps to Reload 308 Winchester Brass
I set up my reloading press, camera and timer. I counted out 20 cleaned 308 Winchester cases and timed each step of the reloading process. Also, I did not rush nor did I slow down for the camera. Here are the results.
Total time to build 20 308 Winchester cartridges was 38:15 seconds. That is less than 2 minutes per cartridge. Using this data here are the build times for larger quantities.
Understanding Each Step Of The Build Process
Reloading ammunition is fun, easy and safe. When you are done you will have quality ammunition to shoot for fun, hunting or defense. The cost to reload ammunition is less than purchasing the same quality already manufactured.
The equipment that is used varies in cost but is affordable. There are also books to read, videos to watch and even social media groups that will help you get started.
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Source by Jerry Wilson
Blade material is an extremely important aspect of any knife. And there are many types of steel used for knife blades. Some are relatively soft steels, which may dull fairly quickly but be easily re-sharpened. Other steels may be very hard, and so can be ground to an extremely sharp edge, but they may be susceptible to chipping or break easily if used inappropriately (for prying, for example).
In the world of knife steel, there is always a compromise between strength (ductility, or the ability to bend rather than snap), hardness (ability to withstand impact without deforming), edge-retention, and corrosion-resistance. Typically, as one characteristic increases, another will decrease.
For example, some of the strongest, toughest knives are only moderately sharp (comparatively speaking), and are very susceptible to rust. But with proper maintenance, they can offer a lifetime of hard use that would damage or destroy a knife made from a different kind of steel.
The choice of blade steel will impact the appropriate usage of the knife, its ease or difficulty of manufacture, and of course, its price. Let’s have a brief look at some of the more popular choices of blade steel available.
A Brief Primer on Blade Steel
All steel is composed of iron, with some carbon added to it. Various grades and types of steels are created by adding other “alloying” elements to the mixture. “Stainless” steel, by definition, contains at least 13% chromium. “Non-Stainless” steels are also known as carbon steels or alloy steels.
Despite its name and late-night TV reputation, stainless steel is not stainless. Like all steel, it too will rust. The high chromium level in stainless helps to decrease corrosion, but cannot entirely prevent it. Only proper maintenance and handling will keep your knife completely rust free. (And basically, that simply means keeping it clean and dry, lightly oiling it from time to time, and not storing it in a sheath. Just that simple. Oh yeah: no dishwashers. Ever.)
Speaking very generally, there are three grades of steel used for knife blades: Good, Better and Best. Each type of steel has unique properties that make it more suitable to specific designs and applications. And of course, the choice of steel will impact the knife’s price.
Good Blade Steel
Knives utilizing “Good” steel blades should be considered entry-level, and tend to be made from rust-resistant (not rust-free — see above) stainless steel. Typically manufactured in Asia, these knives offer a fairly good economic value. These blades are usually ‘softer’ and therefore require more frequent sharpening to keep the edge performing well. But, because they are in fact ‘softer,’ re-sharpening is fairly easy. Some of the more popular stainless steel blade materials in this class are 420, 440A and 7Cr13MoV.
420 stainless steel has a little less carbon than 440A. Many knife makers use 420 because it’s inexpensive and it resists corrosion fairly well. 420 steel sharpens easily and is found in both knives and tools.
The relative low-cost and high corrosion resistance of 440A stainless steel makes it ideal for kitchen-grade cutlery. While exhibiting similar characteristics to the better-grade AUS 6 steel, it is considerably less expensive to produce. 440A contains more carbon than 420, and is therefore a ‘harder’ steel. This allows better edge retention than a blade made from 420, but is more difficult to re-sharpen.
7Cr13MoV is a good blade steel, that has the alloying elements molybdenum (Mo) and vanadium (V) added to the matrix. Molybdenum adds strength, hardness and toughness to the steel, while also improving its machinability. Vanadium adds strength, wear-resistance and toughness. Vanadium also provides corrosion resistance, which is seen in the oxide coating on the blade.
Better Blade Steel
Better grade stainless steel blades contain a higher chromium (Cr) content than their entry-level counterparts. Since the amount of chromium is increased in the manufacturing process, these blades are more expensive. Chromium provides a greater edge holding capability, which means that the blade will require less frequent sharpening. These better grade knives sharpen reasonably easily, but it’s important to employ proper sharpening techniques. The combination of great value and performance make these blades perfect for everyday use. Examples of these types of steel are AUS 6, AUS 8, 440C and 8Cr13MoV.
Both AUS 6 and AUS 8 are high-grade chromium Japanese steels, which provide a great balance of toughness, strength, edge retention and corrosion resistance, all at a moderate cost. These blade steels will measure a hardness of 56-58 on the Rockwell hardness scale (HRc). The carbon content of AUS 8 is close to 0.75%, which makes it very suitable as a blade steel. AUS 6 and AUS 8 are very popular with many knife manufacturers because they are both cost-effective and good-performing steels.
440C is a reasonably high-grade cutlery steel, similar to the AUS series. However, 440C contains more carbon, which increases the steel’s hardness. Its toughness and relative low-cost make 440C stainless steel appealing to many knife manufacturers for their mid-range knife series.
The Chinese stainless steel 8Cr13MoV has a high performance-to-cost ratio. It is often compared to AUS 8. 8Cr13MoV is tempered to a hardness range of 56-58 on the Rockwell scale. This relatively high hardness can be attributed to the steel’s higher molybdenum and vanadium content.
Best Blade Steel
Both the United States and Japan manufacture the best grade stainless steel for knife blades. Unfortunately, the higher chromium content in these blade steels comes at a premium price. The addition of elements such as vanadium and chromium offer superior edge sharpness and retention, as well as very high rust-resistance. These steels are utilized for more demanding tasks such as hunting and fishing, tactical self-defense, and military applications. A sampling of steels in this group would include CPM 154, CPM S30V, VG-10 and San-Mai steels.
American-made CPM 154 premium grade stainless steel was originated for tough industrial applications. This steel combines the three principal elements of carbon, chromium and molybdenum. CPM 154 provides excellent corrosion resistance with good toughness and edge quality. Well-renowned for its overall performance as a knife blade steel, CPM 154 touts a hardness of 57-58 on the Rockwell scale.
CPM S30V, a powder-made stainless steel, was developed by Crucible Metals Corporation (now Crucible Industries). Noted for its durability and corrosion resistance, it is considered to be one of the finest steels ever created. The chemistry of CPM S30V promotes the formation and balanced distribution of vanadium carbides throughout the steel. Vanadium carbides are harder, and thus provide better cutting edges than chromium carbides. Additionally, vanadium carbides provide a very refined grain in the steel which contributes to the sharpness and toughness of its edge.
VG-10 is a high-end Japanese steel, manufactured by Taekfu Special Steel. Its matrix includes vanadium, a large amount of chromium, molybdenum, manganese and cobalt. The vanadium contributes to wear-resistance (edge retention), and enhances the chromium’s corrosion-resistance. The molybdenum adds additional hardness to the steel. The overall combination of elements results in a very tough, durable steel. As such, VG-10 is a well-renowned blade steel specially designed for high-quality cutlery. Blades made from VG-10 can be ground to a razor-sharp edge and still offer extreme durability without becoming brittle. Blade hardness for VG-10 is around 60 on the Rockwell hardness scale.
San-Mai (Japanese for “three layers”) is a composite steel used in many of the high-end knives manufactured by Cold Steel. The blade’s core is a layer of VG-1 steel, sandwiched between outer layers of 420J2 steel. San-Mai steel blades offer superior durability and excellent corrosion resistance, important to those who depend on their knives for hunting and fishing, as well as tactical and military applications.
Different Steels for Different Uses
As you can see, not all blade steels are equal. Some are harder than others, but will be more brittle or apt to chip, while some may be stronger or hold a better edge, but be more difficult to sharpen once they’ve become dull.
A quality designer or manufacturer will select the appropriate blade steel for a knife based on the properties of the steel, in concert with the intended application of the knife. Think about the difference between the chef’s knife in your kitchen compared to a knife used for underwater diving, or a knife used in a combat or military application.
Knowing a little about the characteristics of different blade steels will help you make the right choice when it comes time to purchase your next knife.
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Source by Mark S Zehnle
When in a survival situation, it can be hard to know which way is up. Some skills that are frowned upon in conventional society actually come in handy in times likes this. For instance, have you ever heard of hotwiring a car? This is the process where someone starts a car but without a key. It’s something that is often seen in blockbuster movies and will be useful if you have misplaced your keys or if you must get out of town during an emergency or survival situation.
Interested in learning more? Keep reading for instruction on how to hotwire a car in an emergency so you can get moving once again.
What You Need
Before we begin, it’s important to note that, while hotwiring is an important skill to have in your bag of tricks, it’s also illegal and can land you in jail if used for nefarious purposes. We are not promoting any such activities here.
Also, the following methods are better suited for older model vehicles, especially the ones that don’t need microchip activation to start.
When you are learning how to hotwire a car in an emergency, it’s good to know about certain parts of the car as well as how they function i.e. what to touch and what to leave alone. In this way, when it’s necessary, you can start your car easily and safely.
But, that’s not all – you must also learn about the tools that you will need for the job. Thus, the second thing you must do is gather the materials that you will need – every car owner should have these on hand in case of emergency:
** Insulated gloves
** Driver’s License
** Proof of ownership
** Wire stripper
** Flat-bladed screwdriver
The Screwdriver
This method is much simpler and thus, should be tried first. But, you should also know that although it’s a relatively effective method used to disable the lock pins, it’s use will permanently damage the key mechanism. In other words, any screwdriver, key, or even flat piece of metal will be able to start the car from now on:
** Drill about 2/3 of an inch into the keyhole, where the inner flap starts.
** Remove the drill bit and let the lock bits fall into place
** Repeat as needed, until all the bits are in position
** Insert a flat head screwdriver into the keyhole and start the car normally.
If this method doesn’t work, don’t worry. You can use the screwdriver again for step two – as long as it didn’t get stuck in the ignition cover.
The Literal Hot Wire Method
Before we delve deeper into this particular step, it is important to note that you must use extreme caution when undertaking this task. Take your time so you will be sure to avoid painful electrical shocks and discomfort.
If you choose to use this method, you will have to rewire the car and bypass the ignition system, hence the name. The directions are as follows:
** The first thing you must do is to figure out if you can disable the steering wheel lock. Simply, remove the steering shaft from the back of the steering wheel. You will be looking for a little disk that looks like it can fit a key, remove it if possible.
** Use a screwdriver and remove the access cover that’s beneath the steering wheel.
** Next, look for two red wires, remove a ½ inch of insulation off of each end and twist the wires together, making sure that the exposed wires aren’t touching any metal. These wires must stay connected at all times.
** Find the brown wire and strip about ½ inch insulation of the end.
** Touch the end of the brown wire against the twisted ends of the red wires until the engine ignites.
Once you have the engine going, it is important to note that you must keep the red and brown wires separate, to avoid sparks which can drain the battery.
Important Considerations
To put it simply, the actual process of hotwiring a vehicle is easy. But, there are certain precautions that you should take before undertaking this task to ensure a successful result. For instance:
** Use caution when you are messing with the wiring and check with the Owner’s Manual for specific instruction about the wires and color coding for your specific model.
** Always wear insulated gloves when you are working on wires, as their exposed ends carry a powerful live current which can hurt you.
** After you get the car started initially, pull the wires apart and tape your ends to avoid getting electrocuted when you are driving.
** Modern cars feature microchip and transponder systems for getting the ignition unlocked, and if you try to hotwire them, it may set off an alarm.
The Conclusion
There’s nothing worse than being in a terrifying situation – where you have to move quickly – but you can’t find your car keys. Before panic sets in, take a step back and breathe. The above steps should provide you with all you need to hotwire your car in an emergency where staying put is just not an option.
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Source by Jeffrey Howie
Since anaerobic viruses cannot survive in an oxygen rich cellular environment, one would think that the herpes simplex virus could be eliminated via oxygen therapy.
Unfortunately this is not so easy, and here’s why:
This means that when venous blood arrives back at the lungs, it carries more oxygen than it usually does. Once the oxygen level in the red cell hemoglobin reaches 98% during lung function, the excess oxygen is simply exhaled back into the atmosphere.
This makes it impossible for extra infusion to increase the amount of oxygen carried to the tissues at cellular level.
How Can We Increase The Oxygen Content of Human Cells?
A motivated homeopathic researcher and herpes victim may have found a way of doing just that.
I recently came across her e-book via twitter. I also noticed that news of a possible herpes cure was beginning to gain media attention.
However, knowing the obstacles facing researchers attempting to cure herpes by oxygenating human cells, I almost passed the book by. Nevertheless, because I am obligated to bring relevant information to my website visitors, I downloaded the book.
Here’s what I found out:
Apparently the author has discovered a way to use a common substance to efficiently boost the transference of oxygenated atoms from the bloodstream into human cells.
In her book she says:
“The only reason why the medical industry and the pharmaceutical companies haven’t embraced this powerful solution for preventing and curing disease is because there is no financial incentive to do so. The reason? They cannot patent natural substances or homeopathic remedies.”
The e-book starts out by covering herpes basics. The author then gets down to the business of oxygen therapy.
She tells us how oxygen therapy research earned a Nobel Prize for an early 20th century scientist and that oxygen therapy is practiced to this day in some modern medical offices.
And then she drops the bombshell.
Effective oxygen therapy has been proved to work with the help of a common household substance. Furthermore, this substance can be obtained easily via pharmacies or over the Internet.
After reading the publication and checking out some testimonials, I’ve come to the conclusion that this may well be the answer many herpes sufferers are looking for…
That is, if her claims prove to be true.
Should you read the book?
Well, that’s up to you. However, since there’s no obligation to buy, I believe the preliminary information is certainly worth a closer look.
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Source by Ian R Kelly
Dressing to survive in the outdoors starts with knowing what fabrics to wear. Different fabrics have radically different properties. Choosing the wrong type, or mixing clothing of different materials, can be disastrous!
You may not be able to tell what a garment is made of by looking. A nice, fuzzy, thick 100-percent cotton flannel shirt will be warm and cozy until it gets wet. Then that wet shirt may suck the heat out of your torso and cause hypothermia!
On the other side of the equation is wool. My hands-down favorite in the winter, wool, is generally a bad choice for a desert hike in August. Wool traps heat, and while it provides some UV protection, the material will prevent your body from cooling.
So, the buyer needs to beware.
Before buying any clothing item, read the labels and find out what the material is. Ignore fashion or what’s trendy (I know that’s hard – I have a 14-year-old daughter!), and make your purchase based on the activity and the clothing protection that will be needed.
Here are some common fabric choices:
* Cotton: Depending on where you live, cotton clothing can kill you. Cotton is hydrophilic, meaning it is no good at wicking wetness away from the skin, and can become damp just by being exposed to humidity.
Both of these 100% cotton garments would keep you warm until they got wet. Then, this clothing could become dangerous to wear!
Once wet, cotton feels cold and can lose up to 90 percent of its insulating properties. Wet cotton can wick heat from your body 25 times faster than when it’s dry.
Since I’ve spent a lot of time in the Deep South, my favorite hot weather shirt is a medium-weight, white, 100 percent cotton Navy surplus shirt. The shirt has a collar that can be pulled up to shade my neck, and pockets with flaps and buttons. Cotton also has a reasonable amount of UV protection.
On really hot days in a canoe, a cotton shirt can be soaked with water, and worn to cool you down. On a desert hike, help prevent heat stroke by using a few ounces of water to wet the shirt down. (The water can come from anywhere, including that algae-edged stock tank. The evaporation is what cools you!)
The same properties that make cotton a good choice for hot weather make it a killer in rain, snow and cold.
Typical urban casual garb is probably all cotton: sweat-socks, Hanes or Fruit of the Loom underwear, jeans, tee shirt, flannel shirt and sweatshirt. This outfit may keep you warm in town, but don’t wear it into the back country! Once the cotton gets wet, you could end up in trouble.
Don’t be mislead by the looks and camouflage patterns of 100 percent cotton hunting clothes. These garments my be just what you need for a hot, September dove hunt in Mississippi, but they become cold and clammy when damp or wet, just like anything else made of cotton.
* Polypropylene: This material doesn’t absorb water, so it is a hydrophobic. This makes it a great base layer, since it wicks moisture away from your body. The bad news is that polypropylene melts, so a spark from the campfire may melt holes in your clothing.
* Wool: Where I live in Central Oregon, wool is the standard for six months of the year. A good pair of wool pants and wool socks are the first clothing items we recommend to new Boy Scouts in our troop. For our winter scout excursions, any sort of cotton clothing is strongly discouraged. Jeans are banned.
Wool absorbs moisture, but stays warmer than many other fabrics. Wool is also inherently flame retardant.
* Polyester: This is essentially fabric made from plastic, and it’s good stuff. The material has good insulation and wind-stopping value, and can be made into many different thicknesses.
* Nylon: The fabric is pretty tough and can be used on your outer layer. It doesn’t absorb much moisture, and what does evaporates quickly. It is best used as some sort of windbreaker, to keep your clothing from being compromised by the wind.
* Down: This material is not a fabric, but rather, fluffy feathers stuffed inside a garment or sleeping bag. When dry, down is one of my favorite insulated materials.
But I don’t use a down sleeping bag, and would hesitate wearing a down vest into the back country because of potential moisture problems. When wet, down becomes hydrophilic, and loses virtually all its insulated value. It can be worse than cotton as far as sucking heat away from your body.
In addition, a down sleeping bag or garment is virtually impossible to dry out in the back country, even with a roaring campfire.
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Source by Leon Pantenburg
How is your knee stability currently?
Are you having any problems with it being unstable?
Here are two cases studies that show the effects of treatment of an unstable knee. John and Pete were both in their 50s when they had their unstable knee diagnosed as a tear in their anterior cruciate ligaments. Both of them were active in sports and had been so all of their lives. Both of them had years to work before their retirement and needed to be able to walk so that they could get on with their activities of daily living. Neither of them had desk jobs.
Both John and Pete chose different treatments for their unstable knee problem, also known as a trick knee. The trick knee had a habit of giving out when they were walking, although it was not always such a painful condition. Still, both men knew that the problem had to be addressed.
How John Treated his Unstable Knee
John went to see an orthopedic surgeon at the urging of his doctor. The surgeon explained to him that the trick knee was due to a torn ligament and that it could be corrected with surgery. He explained that the surgery would keep him off work for a year and advised him to seek out disability. John had disability insurance and decided that he would go along with this recommendation. He took a leave of absence from his job as a carpenter and underwent the surgery.
The surgery for the unstable knee was successful in repairing the ligament. John was in the hospital a few days, during which he was in pain but given a morphine pump. When he got home, he had the morphine pump for a week and was then given a painkiller and asked to rest his knee for a few months.
After a few weeks, he gradually began to feel less pain but was growing more and more dependent on the pain killers. He began rehabilitation. It took him longer to get back to work than normal and he found that he was on disability for over a year before returning to work, due to other complications with his health. During this time, he developed a dependency to painkillers.
How Pete Treated his Unstable Knee
Pete did not have disability insurance and was worried about taking so much time off work. He too had the option of surgery to repair the ligament but opted to use a knee brace for his knee. He found that this solved the problem of the trick knee and his knee did not give out so much.
Using knee braces and on occasion, over the counter medication, he controlled the problem. His doctor also advised him to lose weight, which he did.
A Reflection on the Treatment Options for an Unstable Knee
Today, John is back at work and his knee feels pretty good. But his other knee is now giving him trouble. He found that the year off from work hurt him financially and it was also tough to get back into the swing of work. In addition, he found that it was very difficult to kick the painkiller habit. He is opting for more conservative treatment with the other knee and will not undergo knee surgery, despite the fact that the surgery on his other knee was deemed a success.
Pete still wears the knee brace and takes aspirin once in a while. He also started swimming and exercising his knee and lost 15 pounds. He feels in better shape than ever and the trick knee does not give him much of a problem at all.
If you feel like one or both of your knees is unstable, then you should consider taking your stability to the next level with a low profile brace. Knee supports can greatly add to the stability of your knee and can have you looking back six months from now, wondering what you ever did without one.
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Source by Daniel P. Sims
We all have different ways to fight fire. Sometimes we prefer prevention rather than fighting it. Even though there are many ways to prevent this incidence from happening, fire accidents still occur. People still get hurt, loose their homes or even lives in the process. That is why people buy devices to ensure that small incidences of fire will not turn out big to the point of being destructive. Some people do survive with the aid of these devices
The presence of a fire-protecting device is important in making a place fire safety. Despite the fact that is mandated by building codes and standards to have them around, people still get them for the reason of fire safety. Even people owning their homes, buy them for the reason that even at home, fire can be a big risk to use. Your gas tanks or pipelines, grillers, burners, heaters and other electrical devices are all fire hazards. Although, these devices may not be used at all times, having them can be a plus in case of fire emergencies.
There are many types of devices that you can buy in the market and they also have different indications. Actually, these fire-protecting devices are commonly referred to as fire extinguishers. With these devices, there are certain things to keep in mind when using them. Take note of the dos and donts below:
DOs
1. read the instruction manual to understand the use of the device.
2. check the rating or classification of the device to know the kinds of fire it is applicable.
3. follow the pneumonic PASS in extinguishing the flames
4. Maintain a safe distance when extinguishing the flames.
5. put signs and indicators on the location of the device. Make sure that they can be seen easily. They should also be accessible.
6. Hang them on walls or use protective cabinets to keep them.
7. undergo proper training for proper handling of a fire extinguisher as set by the OSHA or Occupational Health and Safety Administration. Follow also strict rules set by the NFPA or standards and codes set by them for these devices.
8. recharge the equipment after use and follow maintenance schedule.
DONTs
1. use them if you have no idea on how to operate them. You will just put it into waste.
2. use water agents on grease and oil fires or use dry chemical extinguishers to electrical devices or anything with metal because it is corrosive.
3. aim at the flames of the fire.
4. stand too close to the fire or even plan to walk on those extinguished areas.
5. put them on areas where fire is most likely to happen making them unreachable.
6. leave them on corridors or any anything that is highly magnetic.
7. violate the standards because even with their presence you might still be at risk or more prone to the dangers of fire.
8. play with the device or even play with its substances use because of the possibility of injuring you.
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Source by Brian Ayling
Remember back in the early days of your marriage when your wife seemed overly concerned with whether or not you were happy and fulfilled? At the time it may have felt that she was hovering too much in an emotional sense. You miss that now though, don’t you? It seems lately that she doesn’t care one way or another whether your relationship will last. You’re frustrated, as you should be, but what now? Are you climbing an uphill battle by trying to save a marriage your wife doesn’t care about or is there an effective way to turn this around so you two can rediscover what drew you to one another in the first place? You love her, right? Even though she’s now acting detached and uninterested, you still see some promise in her eyes. That’s the reason why you need to get serious about your relationship and get your wife engaged in building a future with you once again.
I want to briefly touch on one point before I offer some advice on rebuilding the emotional bridge with your spouse. Some wives become lazy once they marry. That’s not to suggest that this is what is occurring with your wife. You know her better than anyone so it’s obvious that you’d be the first to suspect if she just stopped working on your marriage because she felt so safe and secure in it. If she’s giving off signals that she doesn’t care for you as deeply as he once did, it’s not a case of laziness at all. I just thought it necessary to point that out because it’s possible for a man to overreact about what is happening within his marriage when it’s just a case of his wife not trying because she thinks she’s already captured his heart.
Now onto what you can do to not only save your marriage but methods you can use to build it into a stronger and more satisfying union for you both. Your wife may have stopped putting the effort needed into making the marriage work because she’s feeling emotionally neglected by you. This can happen in marriages that are a few months old or sometimes it takes years for a woman to allow these feelings to impact her interactions with her husband. Women are sensitive beings and we need tenderness, love and devotion in order to feel valued by our spouse. I’m the first to admit that life can be incredibly busy and as such a person’s primary relationship can begin to fall by the emotional wayside because of this. Have you been as attentive as you used to be to your wife? Do you actually listen when she speaks with you about what is going on with her or her feelings? If you’ve taken her for granted, she’s going to stop trying at some point. It’s truly that simple.
You’re going to have to throw caution to the wind here and romance your wife again. I know you probably thought those days were far behind you but your marriage is struggling and it’s up to you to find a way to pull it back from the brink of despair. Begin by telling your wife how you feel. Be clear about how much you really do love her. Women love hearing that their husbands would marry them again tomorrow. We tend to lose a bit of our self confidence when we are married to the same man for a time. You can bolster your wife’s by commenting on her appearance, writing her love letters and reaching for her hand so you can hold it in yours sometimes.
Communication has to take center stage if your wife has become disinterested in working on the relationship. She may not be ready to talk about the problems you two are facing when you are, but don’t let that deter you. Make it clear to her that you’re available to talk whenever she is and you understand the gravity of what’s going on in your marriage. If you show her that you are taking this seriously, that will help her understand that you want to play a role in fixing what needs to be repaired. An attentive husband who is invested in making the marriage work is a powerful force to deal with. Let your wife see that you believe the marriage and her are worth fighting for and you’re prepared to go into battle to keep what you love.
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Source by Gillian Reynolds